Canon S3 any good for astrophotography?

Are there special camera T-Ring adapters or something for mounting a telescope? Any and deal with this person?

[Edit] I'm learning to use the Canon 40D, and I find that has the following problems: 1) Monte wave / wind / steps telescope near my mess my photos. 2) The approach is real pain, because the light level is too low for the camera to display on the screen and the viewfinder is too small to focus correctly. I have to use a guide star to check focus and then shot back. Then maybe the display shows one or two stars in 1600 when ISO. Get a backup plan for focus, such as parfocal settings can be configured without a camera, and will only be granted without having to change anything. (See the first answer) You can get what is probably a 58 mm adapter or Scopetronics Canon and others, $ 19. Then add the ring step to reach T-strand, $ 31. A digi-t allows you to connect to the current 58 mm eye directly, for $ 60. You also do not have the RAW format capability, unless you use the hacks available online, visit CHDK. RAW help you make the most of your CCD. You are limited to 15 seconds of exposure. This is not enough for nebulae, and makes use of filters O3/SII/Ha/Hb almost out of the question because the image is too dark. I'm discovering that I can get good photos with 30 to 500 seconds on the 40D. Another alternative for axis is to get a clip around the scope that gives a 1/4-20 mounting thread that holds the camera. Downside to this is: a) You have to deal with chromatic aberration (Color changes) from its integrated S3 objectives b) You may have to use the optical zoom function to get the bar of the bullet (too CCD Camera large or too far from the eye). Scopetronics has a solution for this. It was not too bad for my G-7 (25mm CCD) and the eyepiece of 50 mm, but most areas have much smaller eyes. Or you can spend more money on a lens 0.66x reducer, can help too. c) is necessary to align the camera precisely the 3-axis point in the center of the eye. Out by one millimeter, and not get everything. Then you have to be aligned on the axis of scope. Remove the camera look in the eye, and you may have to do the alignment again. d) You may need to make your camera to manual focus, because most of the cam can not -5 mag light smell. My G-7 needs to be in manual mode + Macro, about 20 cm "approach to work, to shoot the moon. With the above configuration of the G-7, great shots the moon, with the exception of the change in yellow / blue. A major advantage of pocket cams are the ability to make video. If you can hook Saturn, and keep focused Use 1 / 60 more or less of video, and stack it. Apparently, less than 30 minutes of video will make a stunning picture. I have not tried it yet but others have shown to work well. If you have any real (D) SLR, you only need an adapter in Ta-your-cameras-connect, and possibly a gun-adapter-T, each around or less than $ 20. Advantage here is not shaken, there is sensitivity to light from the side, and the better photos because of the lack of glass which are not necessary between the telescope and the CCD. CCD is also a better quality of digital SLR. On the other hand, the quality competition in the sub-DSLR market is driving the fastest standard that the digital SLR can be moved. Your camera can also ISO 3200, although I do not recommend it for the star, it's good to see if it points to something you want and then you can use a low ISO setting to avoid amplification of noise in the CCD. Be careful with your Objective Lens hit the scope when away - hopefully the adapter does not allow this, but usually my G7 is turned off when you can not move during zoom lens, and I have to move, then the power again. Turn Astro IS function, and probably most of AF as well. Go for large DS cartridge. My 2GB is still full too fast on a good night shot. Thanks to first response, in fact order the digi-t for my G-7, so you can make planetary video. My 40D directory does a good job with everything else so far.

Swarovski DCB swing digiscoping camera adatper

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